1:1 chain bar

Do you think it is possible to run a 1:1 Chain bar? With motors theoretically being comfortable at about 10 in/lb, 2 motors should be able to move 2 pounds at 10 inches. With the chain bar hopefully being under 1 pound, do you think it would be able to last a match without burning out?

Our top 4 bar uses two 100rpm motors 1:1 and it doesn’t have any problems. We use a passive intake though, so its really light.

Do you have any issue with it having to accelerate?. We were running high speed 1:3, and it was too slow for us.

You can add a size 32 rubber band to each side to assist in going up.

We used bands. The main reason for 1:1 is that it makes building the chain bar much simpler, as we can have the motor rotate with the arm.

Yeah, our team uses a 1:1 ratio with rubber bands to help assist going up. We have a roller also so it should be fine on chain bar

I run a 4bar 1:1 with band assitantance and motorized claw should be no problem.

We have a 2 motor 100rpm chainbar, 18 holes (9") long. Easily carries a 90ish gram passive intake with no rubber bands needed.

Do you think I’ll be able to run 1:1 with a 10 inch long chainbar and a roller intake with two motors? I don’t band it right now, but that would be fairly easy to fix.

Well 2 motors is 180-190g plus the weight of the rollers and metal to mount them, I would estimate 350-400g all told. 2 motors = 28in-lbs, or a theoretical stall at 2.8 lbs on a 10 inch chainbar. 2.8lbs = 1200g, so should be no problem.

This could be wrong, but thats what i got from memory

EDIT: Are you carrying 2 motors, or using two for the chainbar? Re-reading I think you are using two, with one on the roller. That just lowers the 350g to about 250g, even easier for the motors.

Just two motors on the chainbar, one on the roller. I’m no tourney champion, but I’m not an idiot either(:

If you’re going 1:1, don’t mount the motors on the chainbar. That just adds the weight of the motors to the weight they have to move. For 1:1, I would recommend mounting the motors to the super-structure of the main lift-obviously geared 1:1 to the chainbar, whatever gear size you need for spacing, however, the smaller the better, banding for the lifting, and the lightest version of your intake. That should be the most reliable design.
However, as always, if someone has already done this and recommends otherwise, I stand corrected.

Our X team tried this. It doesn’t work. Not only do they weigh down the bar, they get in the way of the cone as it flips back. Their entire bot doesn’t work just because they mount their motors this way.

Hmm. I understand there are specific circumstances for every bot. However, that sound like a spacing issue that @Matt4572 doesn’t have since

They already have the motors placed where I was talking about, with no cone blocking issues.

If you are looking for a good chain bar to use as an example watch this video it explanes how to make a chain bar

I have a 1:1 torque chain bar for my swinging arm and it works great, even without rubber banding pulling it up. I also have a rubber band intake on it and it lifts cones with ease

How do you rubber band a chainbar? Can someone post a pic?

This video at 0:42 is a good example

@DanDanrevolution but how do they secure it into place? It looks like the rubber bands are about to fling off.

@Joshua_84927A You could also have a piece of metal extending above the fulcrum of the chain bar, then have the rubber band go from the top of that metal to the bar.

Check out this video if you want to see it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKbeJWPtfk0