Looking pretty good. Looks like you have a very stable lift and base on you that’s difficult to tip. I also like the twist on the passive skyrise intake.
Few things I noticed
-you probably want pillowblocks on the motor axles
-you can internally gear your motors for speed if your drivers can keep up
-you can probably put more rubberbands on the 1st and 2nd stage. In the clip of it raising, it looks like they’re experiencing notable resistance compared to the other slides
Thanks for the advice. Usually I try to keep the rubber bands equal on every stage but I can see how that is more beneficial. And with the lack of pillow blocks, it slipped my mind when we built it all Saturday, an now we won’t have enough time. Lastly, we have quick-swappable drive motors, so maybe we’ll just throw our high speed motors on the base.
Nice robot. Does your skyrise section grabber seam to work better than Stanley Shi’s. As for your lift, you might want to use high strength motors with 24 tooth sprockets for the lift. That would make it less likely to skip and make it 25% faster. Also, to make it even less likely to skip, make sure that 180 degrees or more of the sprocket is touching the chain. Good luck on you’re competition this weekend.
We can build and fill the skyrise within the match time. we haven’t been able to practice full matches yet. But, while the robot is efficient building skyrise, the lift is very slow which causes it to take a bit of time.
Also, Thanks Jesse! I’ve been keeping up with your robot and videos like a hawk. Great job to you too!
Don’t try to get it done quickly. I had to go through many iterations before i had a working model. Also, we used a very moderate amount of white lithium grease which helps immensely. Also, try to keep the weight distribution even among the front and rear halves of the lift. Adding too much weight to the front may cause extreme leaning and inefficiency.