Looks like from the videos that it can go under the troughs, but cannot score the high goal.
Nice robot Jordan!
Yes, the robot is about 14.25" tall, so it can drive under the troughs to the other side. Also, as Telamascope pointed out, it cannot score in the high goal (as is ;)).
Thanks!
~Jordan
Awesome robot Jordan!
I find it interesting that you don’t have anything to stop your robot from being pushed side to side. Do you plan on adding an extra wheel or two that prevents that?
Watching the vids of the robot is making me seriously reconsider whether or not strafe is necessary, after all, tank drive is far simpler and can be much easier to drive.
Do you plan on extending the basket?
Overall, nice robot, and I like how fast it is/was.
Oh, and one more question if you don’t mind. Did you have troubles getting your wheels caught on the sacks?
Thanks!
~George
Nope! 
I was thinking much the same thing; earlier I had been considering holonomic, but now I have (almost) completely thrown the idea away.
Yes, we do. We’re designing a new drive for the robot, so that we’ll be able to make the basket wider, at least, if not longer, too.
Thanks! Yes, we did have a bit of trouble with that where our wheels are too far apart (in the back). For our new drive, we’re planning on making it smaller, so that all the wheels are as close together as they are in the front. (Yes, I know we flipped the robot over already; we’re going to be a bit more careful in designing, driving, and also add some software help to make that easier.)
~Jordan
“Then, the entire ramp & roller assembly would be lifted by an altered 4-bar, which would increase the angle of the ramp as it raised, allowing gravity to aid scoring.” -Quote
How do you make an altered 4-bar, so that the angle of the ramp would increase as it raised. I’m not sure how you would do this, and its not clearly shown in the picture. Could you explain how to make this/ how this works?
Basically, it is the same as having a normal 4 bar, except the bars are not parallel. You have the gap between the bars at the part where it meets the towers to be larger than the gap at the intake end.
Hopefully this image will help to explain:
If you alter the difference of the gap between the 2 ends of the arms, you can change how much it angles. I.E. If the gap at the tower end is two holes apart, the intake will tilt more than if the difference was one hole.
Also, You can reverse the direction the intake tilts by having the bars offset in the opposite way. For example, by having the gap between the arms larger at the intake end than the tower end will make the intake tilt backwards.
I hope this makes sense!
~George
ohh, now i see. If you look at the photos closely you can see that the bars are not perfectly parrallel, they are slightly off like how you are saying. Thanks. :). Also can this same method work for 6 bars?
Yes it can. If you alter only one of the “stages” of the 6 bar, you will achieve the same effect. You can alter either “stage”, just as you could theoretically drive the 6 bar from either “stage”. Similarly, you could also alter both “stages” for a more pronounced effect (I believe).
I’m pretty sure that if you altered both “stages” of the 6 bar in opposite directions (ie. one tilts back, the other tilts forwards), and if the two stages were the same length, the intake on the end of the 6 bar would behave as though it were on a normal parallel 6 bar :p.
Thank you, George and Telamascope for answering questions. Yes, that is exactly how we designed our 4-bar, and as for using it with a 6-bar, Telemascope is correct. For Gateway last year, we built an offset 6-bar to do the same thing.
~Jordan
Just curious in your opinion what is the optimal angle change?
I was looking at one of the pictures, and I saw a Suziki book in the background. What instrument do you play?
I was thinking we’d try to get as close to going from completely parallel to the floor, to an ~35° angle when scoring.
Haha. I was wondering if anyone would notice that! I play the Alto Saxophone, but the book is actually my younger sister’s. She is on 24C as well, and she plays the Violin.
As a note to everyone, we are currently taking a break from our competition team robots to work with our 4-H Club’s robots, as we are holding a small competition with them at our County Fair at the end of July. Just in case you begin to wonder why we’re not posting anything. 
Haha. I will try to continue posting once we get back to our competition team robots.
Thanks again for all the posts.
~Jordan
What piece did you use to connect the brace between the arm mount and drivetrain? The ones at the end of the stand offs?
Just as we did last year, we implemented a joint mechanism made from two collars. Here is what the joint looks like: 
~Jordan
why the “chainsaw” intake?
From the OP.
woah, that’s pretty clever. did you replace the setscrews with couplers? And do you mind if we use that bracing method? It looks much more cost effective than bending metal
I would be very surprised if he had an issue with it but you win vex member of the day award because it is just amazing seeing people ask because its the little things that mean a lot. Everyone take Draco’s example and ask first.
Thank you! Yes, we did replace the setscrews with couplers, and no, I do not mind at all. It works very well! Also, as Tabor said, I commend you for asking.
~Jordan
Thanks:) (10char)