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As many VEX people do robotics, it suprises me very much on how many do not know much about PC’s and desktops. So, I will be allocating this thread on providing a bit of edumucation on PC’s and what to get if you are considering buying a PC in the future.
There will be cases where some of the information here does not hold true (especially in the enterprise/datacenter world). However, for the average user, this should be just about all the information you need.
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General Information
Units of digital information
| 1 byte (B) | 8 bits (b) | |
|---|---|---|
| 1 kilobyte (kB) | 8 kilobits (kb) | 1000 bytes (B) |
| 1 megabyte (MB) | 8 megabits (Mb) | 1000 kilobytes (kB) |
| 1 gigabyte (GB) | 8 gigabits (Gb) | 1000 megabytes (MB) |
| 1 terabyte (TB) | 1000 gigabytes (GB) |
Note the capitalization.
Read more
In some contexts, the relevant multiplier should actually be 1024, not 1000, based on which we derive the kebibyte (KiB), mebibyte (MiB), gibibyte (GiB), etc. Even though these units are all part of the SI standard, the two sets of units are often conflated with each other and used synonymously. An example is in Windows, which uses the names and symbols for decimal multiples to refer to binary multiples. This might cause a hard drive to appear smaller than advertised.
From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilobyte
The International System of Units (SI) defines the prefix kilo as 1000 (103); per this definition, one kilobyte is 1000 bytes.[1] The internationally recommended unit symbol for the kilobyte is kB .[1]
In some areas of information technology, particularly in reference to digital memory capacity, kilobyte instead denotes 1024 (210) bytes. This arises from the powers-of-two sizing common to memory circuit design. In this context, the symbols KB and K are often used.
USB
It is important to differentiate between physical connector and connection speed (determined by USB version). One does not imply the other.
Most modern devices will have one or multiple of the following connectors: USB Type A, USB Type B, USB Type Micro-B (often called Micro-USB), or USB Type C. Except for recent-model MacBooks, almost all computers have one or more Type A ports. Printers have Type B. Type Micro-B and Type C are found on smartphones and many peripherals. Type C is also found on an increasing number of new computers.
USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 are the most common standards in use today. USB 3.0 is significantly faster than USB 2.0, but only certain use cases warrant that extra speed (such as flash drives). Also, you will only get USB 3.0 speeds if both the peripheral device and the port it is plugged into on the computer both support USB 3.0.
Some new computers and devices (especially laptops and phones) also support USB Power Delivery, which allows the Type C connector to supply or receive significant amounts of power.
USB 3.1 Gen 2
USB 3.1 Gen 2 (pardon the horrible naming scheme), found on some high-end computers, is even faster than USB 3.0. However, not many peripherals support it, so it is probably not worth going out of your way to have USB 3.1 Gen 2 support.
USB 3.2 Gen 2×2
For even more naming confusion, look no further than the latest USB revision, USB 3.2 Gen 2×2. It doubles the speed of 3.1 Gen 2, and is also absolutely pointless, since almost nothing supports it. It is worth noting that all USB type A connectors are backwards compatible with others, so there is no need to worry about having 3.2; it won’t break anything except in extreme cases.
Thunderbolt 3 (USB4)
Thunderbolt 3 is becoming increasingly common on new high-end computers, especially since it is no longer proprietary to Intel and now part of the USB4 (no, it is not “USB 4.0”) standard. It is essentially a PCIe slot (a motherboard connector that provides a direct, ultra-fast connection to the CPU) taken outside the computer over a cable. Thunderbolt 3 always uses Type C connectors, though not all Type C ports support Thunderbolt 3 (even on computers that support Thunderbolt 3).
USB4, when used in the classical USB mode rather than for Thunderbolt 3, again doubles the speed of its predecessor, USB 3.2 Gen 2×2. But, more than likely, again very few devices will bother with a 40-Gbps USB connection, since Thunderbolt 3 will almost always make more sense at those speeds.
Components
\large \color{#0070c0} \textbf{Processor (CPU)}
The CPU is the “brain” of the computer. As the name suggests, it does the processing needed to do the tasks you would expect your computer to do.
The two integral specifications of a processor are the (1) number of cores and (2) clock speed. Disregarding the previous analogy, think of a core as an actual “brain,” with the processor as a whole being just a shell housing multiple “brains.” Clock speed is how fast each of the cores can operate. In general, there is a trade-off between more cores and faster clock speed — you cannot simply have the best of both worlds.
Intel and AMD are currently the only relevant processor manufacturers in the mainstream and enthusiast space, though ARM- and RISC-based CPUs are certainly making headway. For both Intel and AMD, higher numbers generally mean “more better,” but you should always check Intel’s specifications/AMD’s specifications rather than making assumptions.
Building or upgrading a desktop
Don’t know where to start? Look for “buyer’s guide”-type content from respected computer hardware reviewers.
Have some idea of what you want? Consult multiple trustworthy reviews of the processor(s) you are considering. Usually these will include comparisons with similar CPUs, including relative performance, which you can use to judge value for money. Don’t forget to factor in the cost of a compatible motherboard that meets your requirements.
Choosing a laptop
Well you certainly can’t choose just any CPU for a laptop. You should first narrow-down your choices by more clear-cut factors, like IO (ports), display resolution, weight, etc. Then look for reviews of the exact laptop models you are interested in, even if the reviews may not be for the exact same configuration you want. There’s usually not much point in heavily weighting your laptop purchasing decision based on CPU alone, since the same CPU can perform significantly better in one model over another due to design by the laptop manufacturer.
All of that was wrong. While cooling capabilities can severely effect the performance of a processor, most manufacturers cool it adequately enough to work anyway. As of early 2021, the generally preferred laptop CPU is the Intel Core i7-10750H. Most manufacturers even offer models you can customize to some extent, so you will almost certainly be able to find a laptop that has exactly what you want.
\large \color{#7030a0} \textbf{Computer Cooling}
Nearly all components in a computer need to be kept cool and within a certain operating temperature to properly function. The main components that produce most heat are the CPU, GPU (Graphics card), and Power Supply. However the GPU and Power Supply almost always come with built-in cooling. Thus, for beginners it is only really necessary to install a cooler on the CPU and on the case.
Continue Reading (valuable information)
There are two main types of pc cooling solutions: air cooling and liquid cooling (also called water cooling). Air cooling pushes heat out through the medium of air, while liquid cooling uses water or coolant. Liquid cooling typically delivers better thermal performance, but is harder to use due requiring tubing, a pump, reservoir, and radiator, in addition to the risk of leaks if not assembled correctly, though much simpler AIO (all-in-one) liquid cooling solutions can be used. The way both cool the computer is through dumping the heat into the surrounding air, by using metal parts with large surface areas and push air past them.
This is an example of a CPU cooler and a water cooling radiator. They come in many different shapes and sizes depending on how much heat needs to be removed…
For air cooling the case is important for good air flow (Note: this does not mean you need an expensive case, as a card board box could achieve the same, though obviously a case does a lot more than just add walls). Because of this the case is typically set up with fans pulling air in through the front and pushing it out at the back, or another similar configuration.
Liquid cooling comes in both AIO (all-in-one) and custom flavors, though building a custom loop is not a sensible prospect for a beginner. Good air cooling throughout the case should still be used with an AIO liquid cooler for both the GPU and other minor components. Additionally while GPU’s already come with built in air cooling, advanced water cooling builds will often replace that with liquid cooling for better thermal performance. If you’re interested in learning more, this video from Gamers Nexus provides a detailed analysis of the pros and cons of both cooling options.
When mounting either heat sinks or liquid cooling blocks thermal paste needs to be used for a good thermal connection between the two surfaces. Make sure to apply it correctly, here is a video on how to do it correctly and what not to do.
In addition to the obvious — thermal performance — you also want to consider noise levels. In addition to the aforementioned video, Gamers Nexus publishes very detailed reviews of both air and water coolers in which they test a whole host of relevant metrics in highly controlled situations (while explaining the significance of each). Other reviewers also provide good data, but most are not as thorough or controlled in their procedures. Reading user reviews (on sites like Amazon or Newegg) is also a good idea, as doing so can sometimes reveal unusually high failure rates or, especially in the case of liquid coolers, a propensity for a catastrophic failure mode.
\large \color{#f0f} \textbf{Motherboard}
- Motherboards reroute data connected to it
- Make sure motherboard is compatible with the DDR of the system
- Motherboards are the backbone of your PC and, while they don’t make a massive difference, choosing the right one is essential to getting the most out of your PC.
*The motherboard is the massive board that connects and reroutes the components and its information*
Generally speaking, a motherboard does not offer any performance improvements regardless of cost, This is untrue, for example, the chipset and VRMs affect overclocking ability but you NEED to keep an eye on the slots. In addition, you will need to check if the motherboard is compatible with your type of CPU. Essentially, this means checking that it has the right CPU socket. AMD usually has pins on the processor, while Intel pins are on the motherboard.
To simplify:
\large \color{#92d050} \textbf{Memory (RAM)}
RAM is basically the “working memory” for the CPU. Whenever you load something on your computer, including the operating system, programs, or just pages in your web browser, they are stored in RAM, making the data readily accessible as it is needed.
Generally, it is recommended to have 8 GB or more of RAM nowadays. However, if you are not going to use any RAM-intensive software (video editing, complex CAD, etc.), you can get away with 4 or 6 GB if you use a fairly optimized OS (such as many Linux distributions — the experience will be pretty bad on Windows 10).
In modern systems, RAM is either DDR4 (faster, for newer computers) or DDR3 (now nearing obsolescence) and comes in either DIMM (desktop) or SO-DIMM (laptop) form factor.
In addition to the RAM’s type, there is a clock rate, shown as DDR#-XXXX, where XXXX is the clock rate in megahertz. In addition to this, you need to keep an eye on CAS latency. Generally, CAS16 or lower is recommended. In general, for systems running on an AMD CPU, you will probably want to pay the premium for a higher clock rate and CAS16, though for Intel, slightly slower RAM is acceptable.
Building or upgrading a deskop
You should consult your motherboard documentation to determine how many RAM channels are available (i.e. dual-channel or quad-channel). For the fastest possible speeds, you should have one RAM stick per channel. It is even more important, though, to populate the RAM slots recommended by your motherboard documentation for the number of sticks you have (i.e. for 2 sticks on a 4-slot board, you should populate slots ‘A1’ and ‘B1’).
Upgrading a laptop
Yes, you can upgrade the amount of RAM in a lot of laptops. However, that upgradeability is unfortunately becoming increasingly uncommon in modern laptops, with the thin-and-light craze driving laptop manufacturers to solder RAM directly onto the motherboard. Search the internet to determine if (and, if so, how) you can upgrade the RAM in your laptop.
\large \color{#ff0} \textbf{Graphics Card (GPU)}
- Graphics cards process computer graphics, allowing for higher framerates and resolutions, more complex renders, and an overall better experience
- Do research and look at graphics card benchmarks to get more precise information about the card
*A graphics card is a card or chip that performs graphical calculations for monitors and screens*
Most gaming computers and workstations have a dedicated graphics card, though some computers, mainly laptops, use the CPU’s integrated graphics. The GPU is responsible for rendering images for display on a screen, as well as other computations delegated to it, such as in cryptocurrency mining. All dedicated graphics cards have their own RAM (called VRAM), to store pixel equations separate to the computer’s RAM to free up RAM as well. Generally, if you look at GTX cards, the higher number equates to more power. But, as always, it’s better to go onto a benchmark website to double check. For the most part, the graphics cards you will get will fit almost every computer, but occasionally there are compatibility issues. So do research!
To simplify:
\large \color{#00b0f0} \textbf{Storage (SSD/HDD)}
- SSD’s have less moving parts and is more robust, but has less capacity per price.
- The pairing of 1 SSD and 1 HDD tends to work best.
- Large files you access frequently, such as your Operating System and games, as well as CAD files, benefit massively from being stored on an SSD.
SSD = Solid state drive
HDD = Hard disk drive
Both are storage devices
*SSD's and HDD's are two types of permanent existing storage. SSD's are a chip (like USB sticks), while HDD's are like a disc (like CD's, in simple terms).*
SSD’s are generally more expensive, which means that you will likely get less capacity, but in turn you get accessing data to be much faster, especially over time. Hard drives are a spinning disk, so they are generally heavier, bulkier, and have more moving parts (so easier to break), but they generally have a higher capacity for their price. One thing people are not aware of is that when you delete a file on the SSD or HDD, it isn’t deleted; it is just marked for overwriting. Both are a bit of a security risk, as anyone could access the data regardless if your PC says the data is “deleted”. Hard drives can be written to many more times than most SSDs, though Intel Optane is an exception. SSD’s are faster and more reliable, though they do have a limited lifetime, so I would suggest they be used as the boot drive and for frequently read, but not frequently written, files. If you are building a PC, I would suggest having an SSD with windows on the SSD, and connect next to it a hard drive to store the big game files. (The SSD + HDD is the best combination, if you’d ask me or anyone out there with experience)
To simplify:
\large \color{#ffc000} \textbf{Power Supply (PSU)}
The power supply is the piece that provides power for all of the components in the computer.
It does not matter what power supply you get It very much does matter what PSU you get, for safety reasons. This will be edited to be more comprehensive. , provided that the Wattage is above the amount all of the components consume.
I recommend using the PSU Tier List found at the Linus Tech Tips Forum, since it is curated by some of the most experienced members of their forum and is an amazing resource. You can use the PSU Calculator to calculate the wattage of your build, but I’d recommend using a 500w+ unit with at least an 80+ Bronze certification. You can use just an 80+ certified unit, but it won’t be as efficient, and 80+ or non rated units usually signify a low quality PSU that you probably shouldn’t trust.
\large \color{#00b050} \textbf{WiFi Card} (Optional)
A WiFi card (with a compatible antenna, of course) allows a computer to connect to a WiFi network (usually for internet access) rather than needing an Ethernet cable.
Virtually all modern laptops and some desktops have WiFi support built-in. However, it is also possible to add a WiFi card to a desktop through a PCIe slot.
If you are buying a new computer or new WiFi hardware, you will probably want to buy something that supports 802.11ax (the latest WiFi standard with widespread adoption). 802.11ac is also very recent, but will not give you Wifi 6 support.
\large \color{#f00} \textbf{Optical Disc Drive (ODD)} (Optional)
Often also called optical drive, disc drive, or CD drive.
An optical drive is essentially a CD/DVD/Blu-Ray player connected to the PC. Optical drives are rarely used nowadays, with most devices being plug-and-play or having downloadable drivers.
If you know you need an optical drive, you may be better off getting an external (USB) optical drive rather than an internal one.
Recommendations
**SO, depending on what I do, what should I be looking for?**
- I do a lot of gaming
- Focus more on a 4-6 core CPU but aiming at high performance (DDR4 compatibility)
- Have a 256GB SSD running windows to store the essentials, and have a 2 TB HDD to store games
- (Maybe 8gb) or 16GB DDR4 RAM
- Graphics card that is rated well for gaming
- I do a lot of working/multitasking
- Focus on a 6+ core CPU with medium/high performance (AMD Ryzen 3000 series, specifically Ryzen 5 and 7 chips)
- 1 TB SSD or 512gb SSD with hard drive
- (optional) 2tb HDD 7200RPM
- 16GB+ DDR4 RAM
- At least a graphics card that works well
Part lists for general price points:
$500 gaming
$1000 gaming
$1000 workstation
$2000 gaming
$2000 workstation
If I made any mistake with the information said, corrections are appreciated 
