Gravity looks well centered, chassis looks firm in the middle and back. Looks well focused as an offensive robot. Very light, intended for speed, chose an intake which was very quick in the past
the intake looks heavier than it needs to be though. It looks like you curved plate metal, but if you’re willing to fabricate something that accurate, i would mess around with some plastic. I would also replace the 1 x 25 bars with string or elastic for even lighter systems. Since this is also an early version, i think you left out bracing on the end of the lift system and the front of the drivetrain. Each side of the drivetrain looks supported only at the end. The lift looks like it’s only connected by axles. Because of this, i would add standoffs on the drivetrain and on the lift, i would add some counterweight that bridges the back and attach channel across the front.
there could be something i’m missing, but i don’t see how you’re going to build a gear tower with those sprockets. There shouldn’t be room for your axles to connect the gears
I see what you mean with the bracing, yes you are correct This was the outline and currently im going through the small things such as screws etc. The trough for made of metal, plastic would be a better solution, and string! that is so much lighter than the 1x25 i never thought of that great idea
Now for your gear question im not sure I understand, ill link a video where i got the idea from.
Np. Just curious, how many people are on your team?
look at about 0:14. Focus on the sprocket, 60 gear, 12 gear, and axle. The sprocket is smaller than the 60 gear. This is because the 60 gear connects to the 12 gear. To hold the 12 gear, it needs an axle. If your sprocket is larger than the 60 gear, it will interfere with the axle. This interference will prevent you from adding the axle in the place you need the 12 gear.
I see you wanted the large sprocket to increase endurance of chain, but unless i’m missing something, it’s impossible to build
Also, is there a reason to reach 29 inches with the 17.5 channels? you should be able to reach the columns with a shorter arm. Also, rather than using 2 chain bars, you could use a single one. With the shorter bars, there’s more torque at your disposal. With single bars, you can avoid difficulties with raising lifts at the same time, have less weight, and chain is accessible.
Also, since your sprockets are in the inside, it’ll be harder to attach chain if it breaks. With this orientation as well, you’ll have unnecessary space between your motor and gear. of course you could mount motors on the outside, but that leaves it vulnerable to shock. And also you can attach metal to protect it if it’s on the outside, but that’s also more weight, meaning a slower drive
There are 5 on my team but i am the one cading it, we don’t actually start building until late august. As for the sprocket, i went back to look and you were right, so i changed it to a smaller one http://i.imgur.com/wc8Pgkc.png
The metal chute (display only) was due to the fact that i couldnt find the right lexan and be able to mount it, but ill keep looking
As for the gear/motor spacing you are right again :). Ill change that as well to a simpler version. As for the single chain bar do you think it will be stable enough to hold an intake/chute at the end? Although it would give more torque mounting it would be hard.
The reason for the height, eventually I will be adding a high hang “hook” of some sort which is why i need the height.
I am interested in the single chain bar idea though, would you mind showing me an example? my only worry is mounting the intake.
Theoretically, you can hang with a 12 inch long arm. We wanted to do something with a 12 inch tower, 12 inch lift, and 17.5 inch rotating hanging system. However we chose not to due to funds, engineering difficulty, time, and a better alternative. If you decied to hang with a chain bar though, you will probably brake your chain. Assuming the hooks are mounted to the chute, torque will carry through the chute, mutiply to the joint, divide by the sprocket, to the chain.
As for single bars, if you go to the hydra website we have a bunch of photos on our lift system. If you look at weeks 4 and 7, you can find a few photos of the mount we made. Mounting will be inverted, so rather than mounting on the plates from the outside, you mount to the plates from within. It should be more stable going up and down. Going side to side will rely mostly on your tower. Also, since its within your robot, it’ll have less interaction with opponents
With closer photos, I noticed you have a high tension gear inside. I think that gear’s extraneous. I don’t think u can turn it, as suggested by the screws, so it must be support. You might as well remove the gear and narrow up the tower for strength and a lower chance of more friction.
As for lexan, you can use a flat plate, but drill holes for screws and use angled gussets for mounts
Yes as for the gear i removed that, it was made originally to keep the axle from moving as chain bars need that one to not move for the end gear to stay at the same angle. ill try to find the hydra website but still link it please :). As for hanging if a shorter arm can reach it somehow ill all for it. Ill try and cad the single tower/arm to see if we are on the same page.
Thanks jesse323z, and i have seen your youtube vids, I even subed.
anyways, Great chain bar Cad views, If I put two gears on the end of the arm so 2 sets of chain one on each side of the bar if, i only wanted one center bar.
basically im only adding 2 sprockets and chain
() ] () <---- the () beingthe gears the ] being the bar the l being chain the txt image isnt right…lol scoot over the second row of chain
I linked it, it’s just incorporated into text rather than a website link lol
Also, i realized your drivetrain has virtually no traction sideways. It’ll be easy to play defense on your robot. I would replace the center wheels with something with traction (be creative). I would also make the wheels either slightly larger or slightly lower than the other 2 wheels. This will improve your traction without sacrificing your turning or control. Another thing you can try is adding a slight ramp that doesn’t drag to the sides. That will change the direction any impact to the sides, lowering pushing force and increasing your own traction