Directly proportional to the tray, what angle should the tiller be at?} With my tilter I’ve had trouble mounting it that it doesn’t interfere with the tray, but when I make a vertical flip out the intake rollers start interfering with the arm itself. Is there any which I can do other than changing the placement of my arm?
I would have a c-channel mounted to gears, attached to 2 more c-channels on a joint, connected to the tray on a joint. I dont currently have pictures, sorry. If you could provide pictures of your flipout for the rollers that would be great, also, if your tray is at an angle that is hard to push cubes up, you might want to adjust that. Also, make your tilter behind the tray. Im no expert, but I think think might help. I don’t quite know what you’re dealing with, so again, pictures would be great. Hope this helps!
Here’s a pic
my team did the math, and apparently when the tray is perpendicular to the ground, the angler’s two c channels should be straight, and basically align to make it one large line. I can ask them how they figured that out if you want, but that has worked really well for us so far.
I’ve found that different angles constitute to different amounts of power required. Do you have a diagram for what you’re refering to?
@33691A-Gold_Dusk I have that too
What our team did for our tipper is that we had a short c-channel attached to a gear, and then two long standoffs pivoting on the c-channel to give us more torque. It is really just about trial and error, and what works for your robot.
I believe this and what @33691A-Gold_Dusk have works for about every robot:
My tilter is always at the same angle as the tray and the part of the tilter that pushes the backing of the tray is always level with the ground. I intentionally cadded it to have this property so I can easily model the tray’s angle mathematically.
@mvas8037 a picture or cad screenshot would be great if you could. I believe I still have improvements to make
I have a super janky tilter that definitely needs reworking. The bars arent perfectly parallel because I dont have anything long enough. It’s also built super weirdly too.
Is there any major differences between using c-channel (like you guys have) v.s stand-offs for the connecting rod. I see some teams using standoffs, and some using c-channels like you guys are?
and I’m curious as to what the math for that looks like if you don’t mind @nirvan
It doesnt really matter, as long as it can reach and push it. At least that’s my take on it.
We are using L-Channels to save weight but I don’t think so, we did need to brace the L Channels with a stand-off in the middle and a 1*3 C-Channel on the top
C channel is much more rigid and has more versatility in that you can use the holes for many things. Standoffs have the perk of being able to fit and mount onto anything at just about any length while c channel is only in .5 inch increments.
I don’t really want to show my hard work just so you can get an easy fix. But I designed it by setting the tilter and tray angle to 45 degrees and building around that. Make sure you mount the tray so you know everything will line up. Also note, the only way my exact setup would work would require you to hole count hole for hole because getting the tilter to rest exactly at 45 degrees for my particular configuration can only be done with the exact sizing I have. I hope that sort of made sense.
if you want your tray velocity to be constant, then you’d use a perfectly parallel 4 bar.
if you want to get ideal torque, then you want the maximum tilt of the tray to be perpendicular to the ground. most bots seem to have something in between.
Check out this thread.