This is what my team has so far. Any criticism (roasting welcome)? yes, the cortex does smash against the 5point bar every time we go put a mogo in the 20 and yes, we need more bracing across the frame but we’ve already got ideas to fix that and some metal to cut. The plate is just a joke.
We’re planning to use a chain bar because of metal constraints but if we get our order delivered by the time school starts again, we could try a dr4b although it’s our first year and we have never built a lift before. Thoughts?
Besides more bracing to the frame, the only thing I would do is move the gear up a little bit, the gear that is driving the lift is really close to the ground.
You cannot have your Cortex mounted like that. Instant inspection fail. Rule quote:
Mounting your Cortex upside-down on the bottom of your robot is also just a bad idea. Your VEXnet key and all your wiring is vulnerable to anything on the field.
Your outside frame rails are unsupported. Running the angle to which your license plate is attached all the way to the outside rail would be a good start, but you really need two of them. You could move your rear wheels forward a little and add another beam across the rear edge of the frame rails.
Totally agree with previous comments. I will say that for using all steal, this is not too bad. The easy fix on the cortex is to mount it on its side with what is normally the top facing the rear of the robot. You could even do it with zip ties. This will not only make it legal, but will give you less issues with VexNet.
You will also need to add a 9v battery, but you probably already knew that.
we got 4 hs motors for the wheels and 2 torque for the mogo lift. The 1x21 bars are temp because we need to get a dremel to cut some pieces but they’re holding up surprisingly well rn
Vex sells the 9v battery holder but you can use any standard 9v battery. If you purchased nearly any kit the holder and connector came with it. If not, here it is.
Looking good! Only thing I can recommend (and you might already have one) is a hard stop at the bottom of the mobile goal lift so that lining up the intake with the goal will be easy for you. Using aluminum c-channels instead of screwing the steel rails ( I think?) together would also be much better, but what you have is fine if you don’t have the parts.
ah thanks, we’re going to add that but we aren’t sure what to use. Would you recommend a hard stop within the structure (four bar hits chassis) or something outside (four bar hits ground)?
Also standoffs or something else? I think standoffs onto the ground could cause issues as it might damage the field or loosen with extended contact
A physical stop other than the ground would be the way to go. Additionally, you could add a potentiometer that stops power when it gets to a certain point. This will help prevent gear skipping and motor burn out.
