Look up DR4B on YouTube, it will help a lot. From experience, use a 1:7 gear ratio (An 84tooth gear to a 12 tooth pinion gear). Use the normal C channels, and put the towers in the middle of your robot so it won’t have any tipping issues. Also use 2 100 rpm V5 motors, it won’t be fast but you will be able to lift a heavy load of cubes. Also, fast DR4B for this game is not possible because it will overheat the V5 motors if you do. A video that you can look at is in this link (- YouTube). Good luck this season.
Also, a tr6b would not be linear, which is one of the advantages of a dr4b
Not for a DR4B/DR6B.
One of the reasons people use dr4b’s is that the horizontal movement of one 4 bar counteracts the horizontal movement of the other, making the attachment point move directly vertically. This makes lining things up significantly easier for the driver of the robot. By adding a third 4 bar (or 6 bar in your case) you would remove this advantage by reintroducing horizontal movement.
ah but i wanted it only for the height my dr6b is 6 feet plus intake so it stands to reason if it was to become a tr6b it would reach 10 and a half feet which is what i wanted alighment can be fixed with beter driveing
May I ask why you wanted to reach 10.5 ft? Our robot is 6 ft tall and is extremely prone to tipping, so I can’t imagine how much worse that would be on a 10 ft robot. Not to mention, 6 ft can get you 13-19 cubes depending on your intake, and you shouldn’t need to stack more than 12 ever.
i know but my partner and i were thinking after we were done stacking we could “accidentally” tip over and block of the scoreing zone or trap a robot or 2 in a corner and it would be easer with more height and tippyness
I’d be really worried about damaging your robot that way. Building a wallbot built specifically to be strong and not do much else is one thing, but building a light lift and expecting it to survive heavy offense is quite another. In the end it’s up to you, but I would strongly recommend against building a triple reverse six bar.
You could do that with a DR6B too if it’s 6 feet. However, as @P_Mania said, it would likely result in a lot of damage to your robot that might force you to rebuild it.
ah i will have to test this out with the 6 foot protype
a;so just curious what dr4b can hold
can get you 13-19 cubes depending on your intake
also if u dont mind my asking what r u runing to reach 6ft
i was tryna do this with my robot
Right, I figured as much. That robot was purpose built to take a beating on the field. We’ve seen several wallbots snap in past years, so don’t underestimate the force your robot will need to survive while acting in such a fashion. The robot you referenced is a scissor lift designed to hold up against rough interaction. You will have a harder time designing an rd4b or any of its variations to these standards.
An intake that flips out at the beginning of the match on a DR4B/8B.
LOL. If you do that you will be “accidentally” enjoined into DQ allience for the rest of the season.
@Avonderweidt stop trolling and start building!
I’m pretty sure blocking ppl off isn’t illegal unless you fell on top of them.
You are responsible for the actions of your robot. The only exception to this is <G14>, where your robot is forced into taking action(s) by an opponent. If you fall over and trap or entangle someone, you will be DQ’d just as if you were still in control.
If they trap their opponents in their goal zone, their opponents could probably escape by pushing the bot out of the way since the perimeter isn’t in the way. They would only be DQed if their opponents tried to escape but failed.