# Flywheel Twitch?

Hi my team’s flywheels were working fine a couple of weeks ago and now they just go for about 30 seconds and then kinda twitch and stop like they are trying to go. I can usually turn the controller off and wait about 20 seconds and it is fine again for a little bit but that uses to much time. Our theory is that it was battery voltage because our batteries were never full last competition because we had so little and in our test we used a used battery. We also think it could be conflicts in the program like when we bump up the speed by five but it conflicts with something else that it is told, anyways thanks in advance for all of the help.

If its twitching and stopping like how you are describin you are either slowly freezing the motors so check for friction or you could be setting the flywheel to two seperate speeds which you need to check right away if you are you need to change it immediately i accidentally did that when i tried makin my first PID and it litterally set the inside of the motor pn fire so check for both of those as soon as you can

This happened to me once, where my flywheels was shooting a hundred or so balls perfectly fine without stalling and then I replaced the battery and it suddenly stalled after just 20 shots. What I discovered had happened is that with a new battery the rate of fire increased and our flywheel couldn’t handle that rate of fire (the constant speed change as balls were shot put too much stress on the motors) so I just reduced the rate of fire to the speed it shot at with a used battery and it worked perfectly fine after that.

It sounds like a problem we had. We realized it was due to current draw.

A good way to ensure it’s not code is to have a code that sets motors to full power. If you notice the twitching remains, I can guarantee you it’s current draw for your cortex.

The cortex can only handle about 4 amps of current per breaker. When shooting balls, your flywheel is feeding constant current with the occasional spike from the instant you fire a ball.

To fix the current draw problem, divide the most power heavy component of the robot among ports 1-5, ports 6-10, and if possible, use a power expander since it also has its own circuit breaker. That will raise your current draw limit from 4 amps to 8, or possibly 12 with a power expander

If you are using a TBH controller, lower the gain to a much lower number. I made this simple mistake and destroyed 6 motors during competition by simply not adding a single zero.

This problem happened to us too. We rebuilt the flywheel, and as we did it someone said that there was lots of friction. Friction multiplies making it want to stop. Also make sure that the wheel and all the gears are easy to spin. Hope this helps.

thanks everyone we really dont know what it was but it is gone we did some tightening and changed some programming at the same time but thanks again.

Check the program. There might be some kind of error in the code. We had the same thing happen to us.

I had the same issue check the motors. What happened with mine was the internal gears were shot. It wasn’t time consuming to change them either. It took me like 5 minutes

Check also for cold solder joints in the motors. Thye could cause the system to fail when the motors heat up. At one point, I had 6 cold joints spread across 4 motors on my flywheel, and it would drain an 8v+ battery to 2v under load. I fixed the joints and reduced friction and now with 6 motors I can run all day.