Help with DR4B extension

So we are still redesigning our robot, and we’re kinda down to the wire as we only have till Jan. 20 to get it working. We are designing something like the last video of 1961X or 6842Z. (PigPen) What i mean by this, is that we are using the same concept for an internal stacker as pig pen called it. We are completely unsure how to do this, and kind of need some help. We think we have the general concept down, but a second opinion would be nice. To show you what kind of stacker we mean, I have 6842z’s internal stacker below. No, I am not copying, i just have the same general design in mind

Firstly - with all due respects to them, but this internal stacker approach did not originate from 1961X or 6482Z. So please don’t be so apologetic about using this internal stacker approach.

But the main issue is - you will need to tell us the exact help that you need.
And of course, what is your current status as well.

I need help figuring out how to do the internal stacker portion of the lift, and how to mount it on to my robot. I have a full DR4B built, and the top c-channel of the 4 bar is about 15 holes long. I am currently trying out the internal stacker design by using 3 hole to mount the internal stacker to, and then using the 3 hole to hook the two bars on either side of the top 4 bar together. I can post pictures tomorrow if you need, as I dont currently have my robot with me, and I did a horrible job of explaining. Thanks for responding

-4004Y (Ynot?)

yup - photos will help a lot.

But guess your main issue is about how to mount up the dr4b that you have built?

It’s how to fully construct the internal stacker in a way that works on the robot and can fit a motor plus A couple gears

I hope you are not looking for a step-by-step guide…
every robot is different - a lot depends on the spacing between your dr4b and the mobile goal intake.
so off-hand, there is no way that we can give any suggestion…

No. Just looking for suggestions. Just unsure how to go about this whole process and needing some input. Of course, that’ll have to come when you have pictures…

We would be happy to help with any questions you might have on our robot. You can email me at: [email protected].

315X’s reveal could help you a lot.
Here you can see how they mounted the internal stacking motor without it getting in the way of cones.

Ditto

Conviently, I was building my manipulator (internal stacker extension) yesterday and have a good idea of an easy way to build one. Mounting components should be all mounted on to a backboard with a gear box in the center of the backboard. I don’t have and pictures, but I have a picture of 9065C that’ll be helpful.

That makes quite a bit more sense. Thanks all you guys for the suggestions. It definitely is helping me get a better idea of how to go about this. Also, what is you guys gear ratio for your MoGo device? We are using a 1:3 ratio, and I’m afraid that won’t be enough power

1:3 is barely the amount of power you need if you are using 2 motors. I prefer a 1:5 2 motor on my mogo lift just because I have the space. But you should be okay with a 1:3, although I don’t recommend it.

Alright. We were just having issues fitting a 60 tooth in so that we could still get over the 10 point zone. We plan on using rubber bands to help with the power issue. And yeah, we are using 2 motors

Instead of rubber bands, I’d reccomend using latex (bungee chord) just like 8059 (SingVex) did in their reveal video.

My team used a 1:3 gear ratio for our mogo intake and it worked just fine. It should work for you with 2 motors

1:3 is ok but if you want to stack internally or multiple cones you may have some slipping problems. I highly recommend 1:5. 1:3 may work with 2 motors, but I have not tried it.

It worked for us without using rubber bands for an internal robot

We only tested up to 13 cones though on it, so if you plan on doing more, rubber bands might be needed

I mean… they are Team Ynot? so why not?

LOl