We have a 21:1 gear ratio with 2 motors attached to the wheel itself and while the wheel does go very fast, we don’t even have enough force to push the flags back or shoot from a distance at that matter. I don’t really know what we are doing wrong but today we added rubber bands on our wheel and are trying to make the guide for the ball closer to our wheel to lose less speed. Any other tips?
1 Like
Do you have any pictures? My suspicion is that the compression of your flywheel hood is not very effective.
2 Likes
the ball in “Turning point” is vary hard and can not be compressed into a shooter that well.
in “Nothing But Net” the balls can be forced in to rotateing wheels a lot easyer
this year punching balls is the way to go because metal punching the ball forces all the energy from the ball outwards thus throwing the ball out
if you did that with the balls from “Nothing But Net” the ball would absorb a lot of the energy and the ball would just fall out of the puncher.
2 Likes
This isn’t true. You just have to make either the flywheel itself or the backplate compressible. I’ve been using a flywheel all season.
No? In NBN punchers were the most consistently long range of any of the launcher types. They worked perfectly fine.
4 Likes
Pictures would be appreciated.
On a side note: If you are using 393’s, a 5:1/3:1 ratio (15:1) on Turbo 240 RPM internal gears (3600 RPM) with 2 motors would do really well, especially with an angle changing hood. If you are using V5 you should be able to do a 1 motor 5:1 gear ratio with 600 RPM cartridges (3000 RPM) and have your flywheel shooting full court as well. If you are not able to shoot far with these preferences, you are most likely doing something wrong in terms of build quality. Make sure that every metal hole an axle goes through is drilled to be larger than the hole of the bearing flats, cantilever the flywheel gear, and make sure you have enough momentum with your flywheel (I’d suggest either 2-3 wheels for your flywheel, no more nor less than that). In terms of coding: If you are using V5 - If you are using VCS your flywheel will have a ceiling speed less than PROS, unless you tell the motor to run as a voltage and not as spin(If you tell the motor voltage, you can program and tune your own PID for the motor). If you are using V4 you should be just fine because motors can only receive voltage via code.
2 Likes
Why would you want to cantilever your flywheel gear? Seems like that would cause untold amounts of slop and friction
1 Like
No matter how good your building quality is, it’s essentially impossible to make more than two holes line up evenly in such a way that the friction is low enough for a flywheel. As long as the cantelevered part is about an inch or so, it shouldn’t have enough room to move. Another option for this team is to drill out the hole where the middle metal piece is, so that the axel is only touching the outer two points (not sure exactly how to describe this one, I hope that made sense). When I build flywheels, what I do is disconnect it from the motor and spin it by hand. If it freespins for 20 seconds or a little under, the friction should be low enough. If the flywheel had three wheels it should be a little longer. Once again, this is without seeing the robot. If we had pictures I’m sure we could help more.
2 Likes
Yes, we need pics. This sounds like a building issue. Your rpm seems fine, as calculated by Connor above.