So our intake for our tray bot won’t make blocks go up and it’s been a problem for a while… we have had a lot of issues, for example spacing issues with the tank treads or having it rotate the wrong way because of the wrong gear amount. Photos for example since it won’t let me upload a video 
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Is that the angle of the rollers when your intaking? If so the rollers need to be more parallel with the tray, the rollers are at a far to shallow angle and instead of pushing up the tray its pushing into the tray.
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Referencing the second photo, I wouldn’t mount my China intake on low strength shafts cantilervered off of the top c channel, because it generates way too much flex. This is because of the distance the bottom, finned roller is from the point of cantilever and the thin nature of the shaft. Because of this, the shaft will have a tendency to bend or flex outwards under high stress, which is exactly what happens when it is being pushed apart by cubes, causing the gears not to mesh nicely potentially or just overall weakening your compression, thus applying less force on the cubes going up.
I would try to make the length of bare shaft going down as short as possible, because since the rollers are so far away from where it is mounted it can flex a lot more (levers)
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that and you need to not cantilever axles.
you have the intake almost perpindicular to the tray so your intake will suck into the plexi of the tray instead of up the tray
try mounting under the arms or on top
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I’ve seen some teams with cantilever axels have some success, I don’t think that’s his primary problem.
What I do to help cantilevered items is I put standoffs on the sprocket and then put a lock bar at the end of the standoffs so the axel goes through the lock bar and sprocket. Just measure it out to where the lock bar is as close to the base as possible then position the rollers where it needs to be and that will greatly help the rigidity and structural strength.
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Your intake is practically perpendicular to your tray. Angle the intake so it’s more parallel.
Instead of a shaft on the front sprocket, I’d advise using a screw joint through the gear and connecting the gear to the sprocket using standoffs (you could also use a screw joint on the idler if you aren’t doing so). Also if you are able, use a 60t as your driving instead of 36t, that way the front sprocket spins at 5:3.
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