Linear slide mogo intake

Hi all, my linear slide mogo intake is not working, the gears keep on stripping and I have the gears all flush. This is causing my mogo intake to not work . What should I do? A picture is attached.

As far as I can tell, there are no bearings present. Those should be first priority.

Try to add metal to stabilize it. Those shafts bend pretty easily, so having it supported to far away is not good for the gears. I would recommend adding bearing flats, as @Dromeda said, and then add some metal supports near the gear. If you happen to have high strength shafts, one of those would work too, but then you’d have to cut metal and add more gears to connect it to the motor, so I would not recommend that. You could also move the slider to the far edge and add another one on the other edge, so there is less space between the gear and the motor as well as distributing the weight on two gears instead of one, decreasing their likelihood to skip. This would also provide more room to add a metal support between the gears, which would help immensely. I attached a really bad illustration because I’m bad at explaining stuff

The build quality is terrible and as Dromeda said, you need bearings to reduce slop. Your gear ration also might not be high enough. You need a good build quality for a 3:1 gear ratio and I think you knight be way safer with a 5:1 gear ratio. Another thing I noticed is that your shaft collars are rubbing against the metal which causes a lot friction.

Didn’t you tell me your mgi was working this morning…

As your team’s leader, I guess I would’ve expected you to be a bit more supportive of your teams rather than tearing them apart. On another note, much of what you said is wrong anyway (specifically gear ratios.)

First, as others have mentioned, you’ll need bearing flats. This will reduce friction significantly as well as keep your shaft centered which will ensure it meshes properly with the rack. Next, I’d advise possibly reducing your gear ratio from a 36 driving the linear rack to a 12 tooth. This will slow down the motion, provide more torque and it will be more controllable. It could be accomplished by building out your rack to meet the 12 tooth pinion or by moving the motor, shaft and pinion in to meet the rack (which based from the picture might not be possible.) Finally, reducing the length of the axle will help significantly, because as you increase the length of the axle, it will be able to flex more, likely one of the reasons that your gears skip.

Hope this helps! Feel free to ask more questions for clarifications if you need it.

This is the second time I’ve informed you to not demotivate other teams. You know who I am.

I’m sorry if I was rude and I didn’t mean for it to come out that way, I’ll try to use more “supportive” words @Dromeda @ethan_matlack

After I did post that comment, I did realize that Ethan was right about using a 12 tooth gear. I was under the impression that it was a four bar and wasn’t thinking clearly. One thing I would reccomend though, is doing a four bar for your mgi. If you are going to use a mgi, use a 5:1 ratio just to be safe and if you can make that work, move on to maybe making your motors to HS. Also, yes, use shorter shafts for less points for bending, and in addition to that, make sure your shaft collars aren’t rubbing against the metal because that, in turn, will end up causing more friction which could end in a PTC trip.

When I meant the build quality was terrible ( I should have used a better and less rude word here) I was trying to show you that the quality needs to be improved. Sometimes, it may all come down to how good the build quality is. Here’s a guide from a few weeks ago on build quality and I think it would really help you:

Thanks and sorry for the rude vocab used.

Another thing you might want to add is instead of having the rack screwed on ar one place, you screw it on at more places. One screw allows the rack to pivot when your gear is driving.

You can consider taking a look at 8059Z SingVex reveal.

There are quite a few close-up shots that you can see the gearbox clearly.

Thanks for all the help! I have a clear idea of what to do now.