Motor with movable wire protrusion

The wire protrusion from the side of the motor would be nice if you could move it so it comes from the side or the bottom, When the wire sticks out of the side it sometimes gets in the way when you have a tight system so if there was a little notch on the bottom of the motor you could get the wire to point down allowing for tight compartment fit on the sides I think its just a little change that can help now and then.

You could notch it yourself – just be careful not to put too much strain on the little solder connections.

He didn’t say it was for a competition robot. It’s good to remember for all of us that the competition rules don’t apply to hobbyists and that a lot of what hobbyists can do are illegal in VRC.

Actually, that would be fairly simple to do. At least it would be in concept. All you would have to do is replace the existing stress relief (the thick rubber bit at the base of the wire) with one that rotates in a manner similar to the Vex chain links and add some extra wire length inside the motor housing so that the wires won’t get yanked off the board if pulled on. I don’t know what this would to the cost of the motors, but it’s not a huge change.

That’s true, hobbyists have the freedom to do a lot of things that teams in the competitions can’t. I always try to apply the competition rules to the robots that I build though. I know that I don’t have to, but I like trying to build my own robot at home that could compete. Last year, I ordered the Elevation Pratice Kit so I could try building a robot for Elevation and I am planning on ordering the game pieces for Clean Sweep so I can try building a robot for it. I even have some foam tiles so that I can set up my own little pratice field.

Another option might be to put 2-4 sockets on a motor, allowing the wire to be plugged in anywhere. This could also serve a double function of letting you chain another motor in, like a Y cable but w/o the Y.

That said, I rarely find myself in tight situations where it matters. Even when the motor is close to the metal, it is a simple matter to coax the wire in the direction I want it.

I thought about having either multiple sockets or even putting the cable on a sort of track that could slide all the way around the back of the housing, but it creates a significant potential for shortage. Something that I don’t think IFI would go for since they design their equipment to be very safe and reliable, both of which could be compromised by a short. I’m not saying it’s a bad idea, I’d do it if I had the means, but I don’t think IFI would.

I imagine the sockets would be exactly like those on the controller, where the pins are on the wires and the item has a socket with holes in it. That pretty much eliminates the possibility of a short.

But of all the changes or enhancements to existing products, I don’t think this one is worth the time or effort. It would add very little while increasing the cost and space used quite a bit (there is not really any free-space inside those little guys).

Agreed. I’d rather IFI worry about new stuff than this.

The motors are in a plastic injection molded housing, retooling it would cost around $100,000 or at lest it use to cost that mush so do not look for it soon.

think more like $1 million…

Nope – nothing like that. It’s “thousands” not “cubic money.” If tooling for VEX parts cost $1 million we wouldn’t have VEX.

For hobbyist purposes you could always remove the green cover on the motor housing, reroute your wires, and then rebuild the back with electrical tape or something similar.

Or as Rick suggested: you could try notching the cover elsewhere taking care not to put too much stress on the wires. There is not much “wiggle room” between the motor pcb and housing so you might need to get creative.

Good luck!