By rebuild, do you mean try a completely different design? I would advise against doing that. I would say to only modify if necessary. If you have time and parts, and are itching to do something, make a duplicate of the qualifying robot. Doing this will guarantee that every single component on the new robot has been checked over and tightened recently. This would also give you the opportunity to take your time with any last-minute fix components on your qualifying bot. Take both, the old one being a back-up.
We’ve got a robot that has been cadded since January. We never got to build it since pneumatics took too long to ship. So now we’re finally building it to make full use of pneumatics and finally have a 6 motor drive
Our robot design is currently really bad. It’s mostly the same design since the beginning of the season and most of the c channels are bent. We will almost definitely be rebuilding and may or may not change our startegy to be more ring focused.
This is kind of what my team is going through as well.
Originally we had a 6m drive bot with four bar and forks, and sid pretty well during matches.
We really debated that since we didn’t have the design we shouldn’t build before states. So we didn’t.
But in that time I’ve been working with my peers on a somewhat better design which we definitely had the time to rebuild.
I feel that if a team has a design cadded and they put in the time, the robot can be finished quite quickly
My team finished building the robot in 4 days, a record for us!
My team is being slightly restricted on what we’re allowed to do, just so that we don’t work too much and ignore APs, so we’re taking this week while we’re not meeting to design our rebuild, then go to build with an exact model to build off of. We’ve rebuilt from scratch before in about a week, so another week shouldn’t be too difficult.
Those options are nearly identical and very much on the outer range of overheating in match. Consider toning down a step more for reliability. For example going 5:3 on 200 carts with your same 4" wheels is easier and a step in the direction of normal.
not exactly how it works. 600 3/5 on 4" wheels has a tangential speed of 75" per second, 600 on 2.75" wheels has a tangential speed of 86" per second.
so 600 on 2.75" is faster, and thus has less torque. Really wouldn’t recommend pushing it quite that far, though some teams have been able to make this speed work, I think you’d find more success with some of these ratios: 257 or 280 on 4", 333, 360 or 400 on 3.25", 400 or 450 on 2.75"