Prevent drive train axles from sanding out aluminum holes?

Yeah it’s an annoyance with no real fix (yet). But, this is probably the best solution to this problem because locktite may further corrode or damage the brass, while nylocks just make the motor stick out slightly further.

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another solution that is completely legal is to replace the brass peices with .5 inch standoffs, then loctite standoff couplers into the standoffs, then you can use nylocks to mount the motor.

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make sure all your axles are perfectly in line and that your frame is square.

something i recently learned is that nylocks apparently lose their “lock” abilities after 6-7 uses, and thats when they start to be able to be undone without a wrench and just your fingers holding the nut really tight and unscrewing.

bruh there’s so much wrong in this thread


What drill bit size should be used? And is the saw dust from the Aluminuium harmful to the Homo Sapien body?

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Idk, but just vacuum away the dust anyways. It’s rather clingy and filthy


20 characters is too big of a requirement for a yes or no question

Thanks for sharing! I too have broken multiple brass threads (on motors) by screwing it in too much. I tried nylocks and it works well to keep the screw in - great solution!IMG_20190811_101816745


Yup, this is exactly how I had it set up on my bot and it never came loose. This method preserves the motor brass fittings the best while locking them in place.

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One of the biggest problems with the bearings that vex provides is that if you’re trying to fit a bearing into the corner of a channel (against the metal like in the picture shown) the bearing doesn’t sit properly and the holes in the bearings don’t line up with the channel holes. You have to shave the sides a bit to make sure the legs on the bearing fit properly in the holes. It’s hard to describe but the bearing sort of fits into place. If you drill holes into the metal, although it would work, any screw would no longer be able to fit in the hole and you can’t reuse the piece. Bearing Pictures


Bearings are not needed on the motor side. If you do for some reason need it, you can put the bearing on the other side. As for “breaking” multiple bass threads, if you mount the motor up against the aluminum, the motors actually fit into the holes. All you should have to do is tighten the screw enough but not too far!


Suggestion: do not breathe aluminum (or any other) dust. Also, eyes… Oh, also don’t get in food or drink…

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Someone made a thread about the 20 character rule. You should read it.

Is there a way to replace the brass thread without replacing the entire assembly? And do 393 brass threads work with V5, that way old broken motors can be used as parts for brass threads.

No, the 393 motors use 6-32 brass threads, while the v5 motors use 8-32s.
I think it’s possible to buy replacement threads to repair your motors.

What about combining the brass threads? And since it’s the same width, can’t it be combined, or just inserted into the brass thread insert?

What do you mean by combining the brass threads?

By cutting the brass threads to fit into the V5 motor. Having one full thread and 1/3 of a thread combined.

They dont fit because the holes where the screws go are different sizes. I think the v5 and v5 motors have the same thread length
Edit: so in other words, yes they would fit, but no, the screws wouldnt.