Sigh.....Universal Joint

Well another failure… but you know what may be if i post some pics of my failures someone else might try it that has a better skill at machining than i do. so please feel free to comment on them but don’t knock it till you have had an idea that needs one…

what was a failure about them?

Excellent!! I could tell what they were to be without the description…

Are then not allowing you tight enough “bend”, or is there too much friction in the U part on the “cross member” that holds the two sides of the Joint together?

the thing is this about them.

1 there was some mis calculations so…then had to remodify them then there was yet another problem the holes for the x bearing was way to big and i was like wtf. so i need to sit down one more time and redraw them and this time use my mics to help me whiddle it down on paper. they were almost perfect but mainly all of the holes were too big. so when i get motivated again sometime around my b day when i’m not focusing on this 35 ton turbine at work i’ll put some more energy into it but omg it’s so time consuming. i think i wil buy a table top milling machine i’m not sure. thanks for the support

wow thats kool i thought of an idea if you can find a lego differ- try taking one of them and glue 2 axels in it or any kind of stuff to keep it in the lego diff i havent tryed it but it should work:rolleyes:

thats a good idea, it’d be a nice vexlabs part.

Ok so here is a new and improved detailed drawing so if you want a better higher resoultion then please pm me and i’ll get it emailed to you.

anyway thanks for the support i might get back started on another version. but as for the differential… T-Maxx 3.3 Diff’s I’m trying to get my hand on one to check it out. i dunno if i can wait long enough for vex to start producing the advanced gear set.

Excellent machine work!!! :smiley: My suggestion is a bit off track - a CV joint (or maybe a pseudo CV joint)

Here is the reason for my suggestion - I saw some used on an old Radio Shack 4x4 RC truck. It was an incredibly simple thing and required minimal machining. The drive shaft ended in a ball with 4 pins (0, 90, 180, and 270 degree orientation) and all were perpendicular to the drive shaft. This end would go into a “socket” to which the vehicle wheel was connected. The socket was cylindrical with a co-axial hole bored half way into one end. The bored hole was large enough to accept the drive shaft ball end. There were two slots cut into the socket to accept the four pins mounted on the drive shaft ball. The assebly allowed about a +/-30 to 45 degree bend angle between the drive shaft and the cylindrical “socket” axes. (I am real tight on time right now but maybe I could pencil out a drawing and post it.)

The RC truck I saw this used on had a metal drive shaft with metal ball and pins. The “socket” was molded plastic that apparently snapped onto the ball. Nevertheless, I think one could make the assembly out of metal and not worry about the socket holding onto the drive shaft ball. Simply keep the two from moving apart by other mechanical means.

I mention this because of the apparent simplicity of machining. It could be tried without the ball too. Anyways, just a thought.