TT somewhat robot teaser (reveal)?

VEX V5 General Discussion
1

20190630_101721
20190630_1017214032×2268 2.67 MB
20190630_101730
20190630_1017304032×2268 2.67 MB

The intake isn’t even on yet, but I just had to share it.
Also, one of the sides looks to be further back than the other, but both sides are the same. Any ideas why?

Edit: it’s a dr4b that will have an intake/storage that expands for maximum stackiness!

6 Likes
2

some recommendations I have:

  • don’t have your wheels cantilevered on your drive like that. its really bad for friction and your axles will have bending issues. try supporting the shaft on both sides.
  • same deal with the joins on your lift. shaft joints are almost never ok to cantilever. if you switch to screw joints, you’ll be able to cantilever them and have improved performance.
  • your wheels are really close together, which might give you some tipping issues. I find that having your wheels spread out gives you a more stable bot.
  • I’m sure this isn’t final, but your battery mount is a bit concerning. it could easily be damaged by collisions with other robots and obstacles. same goes for the lift motors, the last thing you’d want is for your lift motor to be snapped off during a match.
  • It also doesn’t look like you have any bracing at all on that dr4b. I’d be genuinely surprised if it somehow lifts straight like that. try adding x bracing to the second stage and the midsection.
  • your space efficiency could probably be improved. idk how you’re planning on mounting your intake while keeping it in sizing, so you might have some plans I can’t see, but the entire back half of your robot seems empty, moving your lift back could be beneficial.

but still, this is a decent looking start to a robot, could be competitive once you finish it.

4 Likes
3

Don’t cantilever your drive base, especially on 1/8 shafts. Any radial or axial load on it may result in the failure of your drive train

Your COM and COG are pretty high, would recommend to lower than to prevent tipping issues.

3 Likes
4

I would also trying to extend and widen your wheel base as much as possible. just one less way to tip.

5

your bot seems very similar to my early design that was later dissembled.
this is a picture of my small dr4b. It too has its flaws but you can probably use it to improve your design.

image
image1536×2048 2.15 MB

2 Likes
6

I would cantilever it like suggested, but
I dont have 4 inch axles because I. Cant. Flippen. Cut.
RIP

1 Like
7

Something I forgot to put in: the brain and battery mountings are temporary, so ignore those

1 Like
8

you dont want to cantilever your axles. put c channel on both sides of the wheels.

9

Whup wrong terminology.
I meant I have to cantilever them because I dont have axles long enough for bracing on both sides. However, I will keep your suggestion in mind as I most likely will gain cutting capabilities later this season.

10

Is it that you don’t have the equipment, skill or permission to cut axles. The former two are easily fixable but if it is a matter of permission then that would be harder to overcome.

1 Like
11

Equipment and skill is the issue. That and the fact that my house is small so it is full of flammable stuff.
Do u know any good places that I can go to to cut things?

12

Other than a friend who has some tools, I’m not sure where you could go, but you can pick up a clamp and a hack saw and in a pinch that can get you a long way.

13

Got any brand recommendations? The ones I have dont work so well

14

I personally use a dewalt hack saw although there are a lot of brands that you can find at a home depot that will suit your needs.

1 Like
15

Will it cut steel axles as well?
Edit: how long does it take?

16

Should be less than a minute, pretty much any hacksaw will get through a steel axle if you cut long enough.

1 Like
17

Like @Ryan_26982E said it will cut just about anything if you take your time and are strong enough. I would recommend that you avoid cutting an axel far away from an anchor point, like a clamp, to avoid bending and ruining the axel.

18

We use a dremel and it’s fast and easy.

1 Like
19

Looks nice. I guess the base is thin and the wheels are close together to be able to more easily place stacks in the goal zones, but the wheels look really close together. I would recommend placing the back wheels all the way back.

1 Like
20

Adding to what people have said - support from both sides is recommended. But I understand this may not be possible right now - but don’t worry. Teams have been successful without support on the outside so its not impossible.

The best way for this to work is for the shaft to pass through 2 bearings on the inside of the robot - should improve the drive base’s stability.

1 Like