https://youtu.be/-FzKLx50gb4 9 cube capacity coming soon.
Tower Takeover you mean?
The cube alignment system is curved polycarbonate, right?
Ha thanks still used to using turning point
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Daquan, good to see you again!
I’m a bit surprised to see your bot with an active “top-down” style intake. It seems like something like the 81k v3 design would be just as fast at reverse-stacking, faster at depositing a stack, and requiring less motors. What was your rationale behind this design choice? Was it for faster tower manipulation?
It’s interesting you went with the “passive aligner” idea (Lexan was a good choice for that), do you have any plans to change this in the future? Many teams use active spinners to pull cubes towards the robot for intaking instead of using passive guides. I’m interested to see how both ideas play out.
The original 81k designs for top-down intakes both have holonomic drivebases (one had X-drive, another had H-drive). However, most physical bots similar to these designs have stuck with a basic tank drive. What was your rationale for going with the tank style?
I wish you the best of luck in competitions, and I can’t wait to see how your robot performs in a match!
Hey @Wes8. Our design is not done right now and what we add to this design will be superior then the 81k v3 design(hopefully😂). The lexan aligner has been very effective. It move the cube into the position we want most of the time and we don’t need a motor for it. I do not see us changing this design. We have considered holonomic and mecanum drives but we came to a conclusion that strafing isn’t needed for us.
Do you think it would be possible and/or worth it to cut a motor from your intake and from your lift to achieve six motor drive?
How prone is it to tipping? It looks quite solid in the video.
The 2nd dr4b motor is vital when lifting the weight of the cubes and the intake. The 2nd intake motor is also vital to keep the cubes in.
If it is all the way up and we move as fast as possible, we would tip like any other dr4b robot. We try to go slower and not have our dr4b all the way up.
I highly recommend you code an anti-tip routine. At some point during a match, you’re probably going to accidentally accelerate a bit too much, and it’s all over from there…
Or use spring out mechanical anti tip, which is more reliable and will allow you to go faster.
A well-tuned programmed anti-tip using the accelerometer and motor speeds to determine acceleration and detect tipping should be just as reliable as a mechanical one, and have just as few (or fewer) false positives. That being said, it will take significant time to develop. (But it’s something you’ll use for several seasons, so it might be worth it.)