99371a cascade lift explanation

By large demand we have uploaded a video explains our cascade lift.

If you have any question please ask us and here are some more close up pictures.

1 Like

Where did you find those thinner spacers?

We laser cut them but they are 1-2 mm smaller than the McMaster ones

Me at Worlds: “It’s just metal on metal???” That’s literally how I did some linear slides as a freshman… though with slightly different spacer size, and no grease. Grease is super important - it sped up our DR4B a lot, and I doubt your lift would work nearly as well without it. Put grease on all your important joints, everyone. Great work, guys!

So your c-channels are essentially sliders that are separated by the laser cut spacers right? What grease did you guys use for the low friction?

Can anyone think of any alternatives to the tiny spacers? I don’t have a laser cutter and definitely want to replicate this.

They say it’s white lithium. Here is the white lithium grease we use.

would be okay if we didnt use grease

EDIT: Also is it okay to use normal spacers

As a general question:
would nylon washers work as an alternative to liquid or aerosol lubricant? Nylon is generally pretty “slippy” with metal, but is it enough?

Holy moly the build quality is god-level. This is WAY better than the cascade lift we used early this season lol.

I think it might work. But you might want to rub grease just to make sure it’s low friction.

That’s not VEX legal.

Just use grease, you’ll be very glad you did. It needs the grease along the metal on metal contact for sure.

I forget to which size, but you can find them on McMaster I can measure them tommrow.

No grease is very important to the speed, it is also very similar to ten size of a stand off so you could just file down some, or buy them from McMaster.

Optimally, you’d want no metal-metal contact and lubricated plastic to plastic would be better. I might have to experiment with custom slider rails and rollers in order to further reduce friction. Also, we all know that chain is a major source of friction loss, so I’d love to see a design with less of it. It would also seriously help limit slop.

Really cool build, I’m sure a lot of teams will study it closely for the next season. A few questions, though:

  1. Is there any particular reason you decided to use 3-wide c channel instead of 2-wide? You mentioned that 2-wide would work just fine with smaller size sprockets, and since it juts out less it would keep the entire lift closer to the base point, which would cause less of a tendency to lean and/or put immense pressure on the bottom spacers, as you mentioned was happening and required the need of reinforcement.

  2. How often did a length of chain break? If they never broke I would imagine you wouldn’t really need 2 lengths per stage, so I’m going to go out on a limb and say that this has happened before. And to piggyback off of this, do you think a smaller, 3 stage lift for Turning Point would require 2 lengths per stage? I’d hope not, as the lift would be both lighter and smaller.

I don’t want to derail this thread, but I’m curious as to why you think you need a 3 stage cascade lift for turning point.

I’m assuming you think that 3 stages is too much; if I decide to do something like this, I wouldn’t want to make each stage a full length piece of metal like this (for unstated reasons), so I’d probably need that many stages to reach a tall post given the shorter individual lengths.

Actually no, metal on metal with lube has less friction then plastic on plastic, also it lasts longer than plastic. Secondly there is no slop due to it being screwed into pillow bearings, third the reducing of the chain is not actually noticeable, when done correctly change has very little fiction.

For higher lifting with 5 sections we found 3 side to be more stable and more robust, and less side to side motion. Addressing your second question it was just for better weight distribution, it broke maybe once a month you could most definitely run a two section for Turing point .

I could be mistaken but I don’t think there are high shaft inserts for the smallest sprocket if you used 2by c channels. Would it be better to drill out the whole to reduce friction? Or just have the axil rotate in the bearing and not drill out the center