That’s a completely different topic and something that is completely legal under rule R16-j. Rule R7-b is about parts that are identical to Vex components, and R7-c is about fasteners and washers. I’m looking to see if anyone has a official clarification on if these are legal.
<R16> Covers all of the possible modifications you can make to your parts. The only one that I can see talk about cutting/drilling metal. There’s no mention to modification of other parts, such as cutting a gear. I think there may need to be an update to the manual.
Using these spacers is not technically legal but it is nearly impossible to enforce. If you want to comply fully with the rules, it is best to avoid use of these or machine the correct size from legal vex spacers.
I have recently bought two of the high strength sprocket and chain kits, both times the 12 tooth sprockets have come compatible with the round and square inserts. I purchased these directly from vex.
I know this thread is quite long, but sometimes other people have the same questions as you (as in this case)
Link to the answer post in this thread: https://vexforum.com/index.php/conversation/post/269610
So I had a question about the spacers. I looked on McMaster I found that the nylon spacers they carry do not have the right ID for screws, however it was the right OD. So I was wondering could you just drill a 3/16" OD spacer to fit a the screw. Also is there any other ways to build a cascade lift with out the vex linear slides (like a different way of keeping the C-Channels in place with out the special nylon spacers or vex linear slide)?
do you guys think it will be possible to power a three stage lift with only 1 v5 motor
You could try to sand down the spacers by hand. It won’t be perfect of course, and it will take a while, but it is possible. We tried it and have made a few.
Definitely. We used a 3 stage cascade lift with a chain bar on top early last season and 3 HS (393) motors could power it easily. The torque of 3 HS motors are around ~27 in/lb. A single V5 motor at 100 RPM should have around 37 in/lb. At 200 RPM, it will have around 18 in/lb. This season shouldn’t require such heavy loads on the top of the cascade lift as last season, so 200 RPM might work depending on how much weight and friction your cascade lift has.
Is there anything that can be used in place of the spacers or anything that can be done to get the same effect without a laser cutter?
There absolutely is and can be done well. You can sand down the spacers manually. We did it, and while it was time consuming, the results are amazing. Here’s how:
- Put 3-4 spacers on a screw. I recommend the black ones as they are thinner and made of plastic, so they file down easier. Lock them down with a lock nut, but not too tightly or you will bend the spacer by the end of the process.
- Stick the remainder of the screw in a drill
- Take a dremel and push lightly against the spacers while the drill is spinning.
Most of what is said in this post is good but I will note that the white spacers have lower friction so that should also be taken into account.
I thought about this because nylon is less frictiony than plastic. When we put on the plastic spacers though, it worked like a beauty, so we stuck with it. It works with a single 393 turbo motor. My point is that the difference is minimal, so don’t let that by your deciding factor for whether you build a cascade lift. They are amazing and have so many advantages.
You can do something to the same effect without laser-cutting. Just adjust your spacing in CAD to make due with what you have
@224x could you DM me some pics of your cascade design as well? Thanks!
Also could someone link the McMaster version of the spacers they used?
It’s at my friend’s house right now, but I’ll DM you tomorrow
That’s fine, thanks!
How can we 3d print these? What are the dimensions
? Big Elaboration necessary