Flywheel Overheating

Hello. I am working on a flywheel on a lift for this year’s game and i’m having trouble with my flywheel. I have these gears set up in order: (84:12) + (32:12). 84 is drive gear and the 12 in the (32:12) is the wheel. I have tried different motors for my flywheel, but all of them have overheated. They have about lasted about for 3 to 4 minutes on full 200 RPM. I get about 4200 RPM on the flywheel. I have no other motors to make the flywheel 2m (22w) and can only 1m (11w). If anyone can help it would be really nice as I am on a time crunch currently for our states comp.

Switching to a 600 rpm motor and just using an 84 to a 12 would still get you the full 4200 rpm but would greatly reduce the parasitic losses from the gears. The gearbox in the motor will be much more efficient than a gear train using the vex parts.

Side note the vex motors are high rpm and all the gearboxes reduce the speed for better torque. The higher speed one just has less of a reduction. There is no point reducing the rpm of a motor with a red or green gearbox if you are going to gear it up again for rpm.

Hope this helps.:slight_smile:

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We do not currently have a 600 RPM motor to this day. I have a (84:12:32:84) ratio. Should I switch my 32 teeth gear to a 30 sprocket to a 6 tooth sprocket for less of the friction it had?

He probably doesn’t have one.

To answer the OP, this is most likely due to friction. Check your ball bearings, structre for slop (wiggle it a bit, it shouldn’t move), spacing (fingernail width of slop between the spacers and structure), and contact (no metal to metal contact).

if it lasts for 3-4 minutes, that wouldn’t be a problem if I am understanding this right. You could use it for one match, cool it with upside-down air duster cans between matches, and have it be ready for the next match right?

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How’s the friction on the system? If there is misalignment in your gearbox you’ll lose a lot of energy to friction. You can check by spinning the motor in the devices menu of the brain and checking the wattage. For a flywheel there shouldn’t be more than a watt or two of load once it’s up to speed.

Are you sure that won’t damage anything? The stuff that comes out literally freezes the moisture in the air and freezes any spiders that I’ve come across.

it would only cool down the plastic shell by the way that compressed air is expensive.

should I use a (84:12) to a ((30:6) - Sprockets) to make the strain between the gears be less and better for more speed? Flywheel 2 ( as it looks like the flywheel can get about 9,800 RPM and I can slow down the motor to a reasonable speed.

Few comments:

  1. I second the comment to use the blue cartridge. It is more efficient.
  2. From working with flywheels last year I highly doubt you are getting 4200 rpm as most wheels will a) come off apart at those speeds b) balance issues will become VERY apparent
  3. How do you KNOW you are hitting those speeds? Are you checking motor speeds via code?
  4. Check your shafts. Even new ones are not always straight.
  5. Keep shafts as short as possible
  6. Ball bearing will help
  7. REMOVE the grease from your bearings using a good (but safe ) solvent (acetone = ask adult for help = will melt most plastics) (electronic cleaner from auto zone = much safer = will NOT melt plastics) (gasoline = don’t even thing about it)
  8. Removing grease w/ help drop motor load noticeably.
  9. Make sure all shafts/etc are aligned as straight as possible (centered in the holes).
  10. Redesign so as to NOT need such a high rpm. You could go with a heavier flywheel at a slower rpm.

Or wait! You could just do 3000 RPM, our s is 3000 RPM and it takes almost 10 minutes to over heat.

it should be completely fine, we have a blue motor core flywheel on our robot, and after each match, we spray the motor with a three to five-second burst from one of those cans, and sometimes our drivetrain too, depending. Our motors still work fine, but don’t get your face or hands in the way of it, that hurts.

Too slow for us, and I was planning to get 9,800 RPM too to be able to slow down the motor so it doesn’t overheat.

Imma do that. For fun I’m going to take all of the extra motors and make a 25000 RPM flywheel and launch tribals across the gym.

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  1. I don’t have the blue cartidge.
  2. I use a flex wheel as the flywheel and which it did not do anything.
  3. I’m checking through nothing. I’m just guessing because that ratio I have is calculated to be 4,200 RPM. It is just a amount that it would be, but it might not be that fast.
  4. I checked all of them and some of them are bent. I will get them fixed when I get to my robot.
  5. Why? What does it do? what happens if I have a short shaft that is spinning the (12:32) gears and it starts moving while in?
  6. I currently don’t have ball bearings.
  7. I do not have any of those materials and I’m guessing my mentor won’t do that.
  8. I know, but I was going to try WD-40 but not sure on how legal it is and if I should bring it to school.
  9. They are aligned (to my notice.)
  10. I might not do this currently. I think I need it for now but I will re-design later to see.
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If you have extra motors then use a 2 motor flywheel.

I do not have any more, as here are my motor specs: 44w Drive, 22w Lift, 11w Flywheel, and a 11w Intake.

  1. Flex wheels simply will not spin that fast without coming off the hub, deforming, etc… all of which will throw them out of balance, eat up power, and cause your heat issue.
  2. Let’s fix this… getting data from motors is a quick/easy way to accelerate your robot program forward and to begin to make changes based on data instead of thoughts/hopes.
  3. fix/replace
  4. Shorter shafts cause less balance issues and are less likely to flex
  5. ok
  6. only applies if you have BB
  7. NO. a) it’s not a good lubricant b) not legal c) can use pencil lead instead on the steel shaft

then what wheel should I use? btw I don’t have a hub for it, im just using a low-strength gear to hold it.

Oh dang. If you gear the lift down enough you could get a 11 watt lift, 22 watt flywheel and then also prolly a b or c tier hang. :person_shrugging: