I’ve seen this with teams of the old kit - they pressurize the system with a 4mm tube and then use a shut-off valve to isolate the system. It’s a smart way to do it, as the Schrader value disconnection does lose some air pressure by the nature of it (I’ve seen a 20psi loss if you’re clumsy about it).
Or I’ve over-pressured the system knowing it’s going to have losses when it’s disconnected from the Schrader air supply. The GDC rules are 100psi at the start of a match, but the system can handle a bit more. Just make sure you’re with in the GDC rules at match start.
So @JRstearns 's team’s only option currently is to buy a whole new kit? That’s really unfortunate, and makes these kits really risky to buy for competition teams. There needs to be a way to get replacement parts, and soon, before the competition season really gets going.
Given that VEX is currently not providing any replacement components for the new pneumatic kits, I’d recommend all teams who purchase these kits stock up on remote fill Schrader valves from the old pneumatics kit.
If your fill valve from the new kit breaks, you can replace it with a straight or angled fitting and run a tube to this component to still be able to use your $300 kit.
This would be a great component for VEX themselves to include in the new kit.
* KQ2S04-M3G is a legal substitute for KJS04-M3
* KQ2L04-M3G is a legal substitute for KJL04-M3
* The use of KQ2LO4-M5A would not be legal, as it adds functionality not provided by the discontinued parts
Ours just broke! Could you please be more clear on how to use the depicted tire valve assembly to make this ridiculously expensive, new pneumatics kits work with “straight or angled fitting” and a tube? What is a straight or angled fitting anyway? Pictures would be extremely helpful!
So instead of having the Schrader valve directly mounted to the reservoir, you can install a fitting of any type (hence why I said “straight or angled”) on the tank, connect a tube to it, and then on the other end of that tube connect the remote fill Shrader valve that I linked in my post. You’ll probably need to block off the other port on the valve.
This way, when you put air into the valve, it flows through the connected tube into the tank and pressurizes the tank.
I only have the old kits unfortunately, but the configuration would look something like this:
My team also broke our valve for the new air tank, I tried looking to the discussion but it was confusing, could anyone provide links or some type of reference to any valid valves that fit and are legal. We have tried researching for an M5 valve but most of them don’t seem proper.