Both wheels are from flex wheels. The one in the front is just cut to form an L shape.
Can confirm that shore 30 (light gray) 4 inch flex wheels are OP. Got em yesterday, and I am very happy.
So much grip with not much compression. It’s great. On my intakes the deformation of the wheels does not have to be extreme, and my limited experience suggests that extreme compression for much deformability of the wheels is just unnecessary.
They will likely need replacements if they begin to flake. The outer surface was concerningly smooth, but my fears were unfounded. Greeeeeaaat product, bought all sizes shore 30, but have only been testing the 4 inch.
I would suggest also using them for your front intakes by creating flaps with them. Only as long of your coach/mentor allows of course.
I mean it might work, but i deem it unneeded.
Slight, uniform deformation is key with these, but then again, perhaps cutting them allows for stiff, deformation that allows for more compression?
If ur budget says no, I wouldn’t risk cutting em, you may need replacements in the first place, why cut more?
Making the flaps increases the amount of total surface area that can touch the ball, thus increasing the speed and probabilty of the wheel getting a grip of the ball. Overall just more efficient but I can understand what your saying as the flex wheels ( especailly 4" ) are costly.
You phrased that far better than I tried to, good point.
So the intakes that we had last year were different on each robot. The 24 bot has 5 inch wheels as the primary wheels and the 15 had the 4 inch wheels as the primary wheels. The 24 had custom machined intakes but the 15 was mainly vex parts. It is possible to make intakes like our 15 bot. I think there may be some pictures out there of the intakes but I don’t know how much we released from our photo album.
Both robots used two sizes
24" had 5" 30A that were flapped for the front funneling
24" had 4" 30A that were left normal for the back compression wheel
15" had 4" 30A that were flapped for the front funneling wheel
15" had 3" 30A that were left normal for the back compression wheel
The colors correspond to increasing hardness as the color gets darker
so 30A is the lightest color and the softest material
Okay, do you think it will make much of a difference if we use two 4" wheels instead of a 4" and 3" wheel?
I think the main reason he did that was so he can have a wider intake range. And it wouldn’t matter because the front ones are cut and compress more. So yes you can. But I feel the way Charlie did it is maybe optimal
It really depends on the design of your robot and intakes. But if you can, use the worse ones. I’d rather you not have better intakes then me at the december chittenango comp
It is what it is. We will see who does the best
Last week I was running Omnis in front and flex in back on my intakes, this week I got the rest of my order and I have flex on both its very very nice. The versahubs are awful tho, I’d stay away from them. My hubs are very nice but idk if I can leak them yet.
Are you running cut down flex wheels (to resemble flaps) on the front, or just non cut down ones for both?
Cutting the flex wheels is probably overkill, It intakes perfectly just with stock.
So what @cykaraptor what colors are your flex wheels and what size do you use? Also, what is the point of the hubs? (I’m new to this and have been struggling with intakes. Its the only part of the robot that still needs major work.)
I would say they are really good. We were able to get them this week but weren’t able to use them to their full potential due to how are intakes were built. So know we are working on a new design which should be amazing. I would agree the hubs are garbage so we skipped buying them for budget and they are bad. We first were doing the stuff friction chain into the center and deiced that the new intakes can’t have chain sticking out so we are going to just drill holes into low strength gears and use that. Because then we can use the gears to also power them aswell.
We have been trying out alternatives to the VersaHubs and we found some for the smaller wheels, but not the larger ones. What are you using for the 3" and 4" wheels? It is possible to jam a 36 tooth gear in the center, but then the wheel is deformed, and it seems like it might slip anyway.
For the 1 5/8 and 2" wheels we were able to jam a 12 tooth metal gear in there. If the wheel is passive, then a spacer fits nicely.
Well I did the method shown above. Anyways we ended up not using them lol because of many different reason